It's been quite a while since I posted! Sorry 'bout that! I'm dealing with some health things, but that doesn't mean I have stopped knitting!
Here's a pattern for some quick and easy fingerless gloves. The pattern is in the round, but the thumb hole is created by knitting flat for a few rows, so if you do not feel like knitting a thumb gusset or you are a beginner who does't want to tackle that yet, this is a nice place to start.
As always, check the bottom of the pattern for modification tips!
Mirror Cable Mitts
Finished size: 6.5” tall and ~7” around (unworn). Thumb hole is 1.75”
Finished piece will stretch to fit most hand sizes.
Tips for adjusting size follow the pattern.
Materials
100 yards of worsted weight yarn (pictured is Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn in Graybeard)
Size 6 circular needle with long cord for Magic Loop method (check out Knit Purl Hunter for a video tutorial on the Magic Loop method)
cable needle
Stitch Marker (optional)
Gauge:
10 stitches per 2 inches in stockinette stitch
14 rows per 2 inches
Gauge is not vital to this project, so don’t worry if you are a bit off.
Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
BO - bind off
K - knit
P - purl
C4F - Cable 4 Front. Place two stitches on a cable needle, hold to front, knit next 2 stitches, then knit the stitches from the cable needle.
C4B - Cable 4 Back. Place two stitches on a cable needle, hold to back, knit next 2 stitches, then knit the stitches from the cable needle.
For Both Mitts:
Loosely CO 38 stitches. (Using the long-tail cast on method is ideal. You may wish to go up a needle size if you tend to cast on impossibly tightly like I do.)
Divide stitches evenly between needles (19 each).
To join, take one stitch from the right needle (needle with working yarn) and place it on the left. Knit the stitch you just moved together with the first stitch from the left needle using BOTH the working yarn and the tail from the cast-on. Place marker if needed.
Begin pattern using only working yarn. (You should now have 37 total stitches.) At the end of the round, treat both loops from the joining stitch as one stitch and continue in pattern.
Right Mitt
Bottom Cuff:
Rows 1-3: (K1,P1) 15 times. K4, P1 (K1,P1).
Row 4: (K1,P1) 15 times, C4F, P1 (K1,P1).
Rows 5-7: (K1,P1) 15 times. K4, P1 (K1,P1).
Row 8: (K1,P1) 15 times, C4F, P1 (K1,P1).
Body:
Rows 9-11: K29, P1, K4, P1, K2.
Row 12: K29, P1, C4F, P1, K2.
Rows 13-15: K29, P1, K4, P1, K2.
Row 16: K29, P1, C4F, P1, K2.
Rows 17-19: K29, P1, K4, P1, K2.
Row 20: K29, P1, C4F, P1, K2.
Rows 21-23: K29, P1, K4, P1, K2.
Row 24: K29, P1, C4F, P1, K2.
Thumb hole is worked flat. Begin turning work.
Row 25: P2, K1, P4, K1, P29
Row 26: K29, P1, K4, P1, K2.
Row 27: P2, K1, P4, K1, P29
Row 28: K29, P1, C4F, P1, K2.
Row 29: P2, K1, P4, K1, P29
Row 30: K29, P1, K4, P1, K2.
Row 31: P2, K1, P4, K1, P29
Row 32: K29, P1, C4F, P1, K2.
Row 33: P2, K1, P4, K1, P29
Row 34: K29, P1, K4, P1, K2.
Resume working in-the-round.
Row 35: K29, P1, K4, P1, K2.
Row 36: K29, P1, C4F, P1, K2.
Rows 37-39: K29, P1, K4, P1, K2.
Row 40: K29, P1, C4F, P1, K2.
Rows 41-43: K29, P1, K4, P1, K2.
Top Cuff:
Row 44: (K1,P1) 15 times, C4F, P1, (K1,P1).
Rows 45-46: (K1,P1) 15 times. K4, P1 (K1,P1).
Loosely bind off all stitches in pattern and weave in ends. You may wish to go up a needle size to ensure a stretchy bind off. When binding off the cable, knit the two center stitches of the cable together, then pass the next stitch over (as in a normal bind off). This keeps the cable from flaring.
Left Mitt
Bottom Cuff:
Rows 1-3: (P1,K1) P1, K4, (P1,K1) 15 times
Row 4: (P1,K1) P1, C4B, (P1,K1) 15 times
Rows 5-7: (P1,K1) P1, K4, (P1,K1) 15 times
Row 8: (P1,K1) P1, C4B, (P1,K1) 15 times
Body:
Rows 9-11: K2, P1, K4, P1, K29
Row 12: K2, P1, C4B, P1, K29
Rows 13-15: K2, P1, K4, P1, K29
Row 16: K2, P1, C4B, P1, K29
Rows 17-19: K2, P1, K4, P1, K29
Row 20: K2, P1, C4B, P1, K29
Rows 21-23: K2, P1, K4, P1, K29
Row 24: K2, P1, C4B, P1, K29
Thumb hole is worked flat. Begin turning work.
Row 25: P29, K1, P4, K1, P2
Row 26: K2, P1, K4, P1, K29
Row 27: P29, K1, P4, K1, P2
Row 28: K2, P1, C4B, P1, K29
Row 29: P29, K1, P4, K1, P2
Row 30: K2, P1, K4, P1, K29
Row 31: P29, K1, P4, K1, P2
Row 32: K2, P1, C4B, P1, K29
Row 33: P29, K1, P4, K1, P2
Row 34: K2, P1, K4, P1, K29
Resume working in-the-round.
Row 35: K2, P1, K4, P1, K29
Row 36: K2, P1, C4B, P1, K29
Rows 37-39: K2, P1, K4, P1, K29
Row 40: K2, P1, C4B, P1, K29
Rows 41-43: K2, P1, K4, P1, K29
Top Cuff:
Row 44: (P1,K1) P1, C4B, (P1,K1) 15 times
Rows 45-46: (P1,K1) P1, K4, (P1,K1) 15 times
Loosely bind off all stitches and weave in ends. You may wish to go up a needle size to ensure a stretchy bind off. When binding off the cable, knit the two center stitches of the cable together, then pass the next stitch over (as in a normal bind off). This keeps the cable from flaring.
Tips for size modifications:
When casting on, add or remove stitches in multiples of 4 for larger or smaller widths. Be sure to plan for additional yardage if adding stitches. To modify height, add or remove rows in multiples of 4.
To make the thumb hole bigger, start turning work and working flat on an odd row. When ready, resume working in-the-round on an odd row.
I'm currently working on a pair in MadeltineTosh Tosh DK, so definitely try this out in different yarns!
You may sell items made from this pattern as long as you give me credit as the designer by linking to this post. You may not copy or distribute this pattern in part or in whole.
If you have trouble with this pattern or find any errors, please let me know. I will correct errors as soon as possible.
© Emily Does Everything 2015
